The tonearm of the SL-DL1 sometimes gets stuck when playing an album, but often it behaves well. I have a technics sl-5 Pressing the start button with the lid open should then allow the platter to spin and the arm to drop. One of the most prolific manufacturers of consumer-grade linear-tracking turntables was Technics/Panasonic. Tech Specs. The flashing repeat light on any Technics turntable usually indicates a problem with the arm, normally that the automatic mechanism is unable to move the arm into position. My guess would be either the tracking force is slightly out (unlikely), the stylus is worn (possible), or that the tonearm drive belt is slipping (most likely). Hi thanks for the reply. What am i doing wrong? Enter your eMail address to subscribe and we'll notify you whenever there's a new post. After it is cleaned and slides easily, will I be able to manually slide it to select a different song vs. playing them all to get to the third song? The arm lifter can be depressed so that the arm drops to the platter. Hi there! smilehood. It turned out to be the tact switches on the front of the unit. In that case, start by checking switches and sensors. Thanks. Not an easy task to locate these lubes here in France but I keep looking. Meet the budget-friendly Technics SL-1500C that will only set you back 899 / $999 / AU$2499. Might take a few tries to get it right, that should do it. Hi Ashley. In direct comparison to my SL-DD33 through Celestion 5 Mk2 speakers, the SL-5 wins hands down. I played around with the small weight dials at the end of the arm and it remains in a locked position on the holder. Should be an easy repair however. To do so, remove the screw located on the side of the cartridge near where it connects into the arm, and while also carefully supporting the arm gently wiggle it out of its slot. . Im wondering if the wiring between the lid and the base may be at fault. Alignment of the lid is important in these decks as if the lid is misaligned it can push the mechanism slightly out of alignment which can cause odd tracking behaviour. The SL-10 has the same width and depth dimensions as an LP record jacket, tiny for a fully-featured turntable. In that case. Be sure not to over tighten either nut during reassembly. I had the same issue when I fired up my technics sl5 after years of non use And thats exactly what I did in fact, the turntable is playing as I write and, with the original MC310 cartridge, it sounds nothing short of beautiful. I read this with great interest since I have a SL10. Both tables had their label lights burned out, and one table had some microswitch issues for cueing the arm in fast mode, but beyond that, what great little tables! Hi Ashley Thank you. An avid vinyl collector and coffee addict, I can often be found at a workbench tinkering with a faulty electronic device, tweaking a turntable to extract the last bit of detail from those tiny grooves in the plastic stuff, or relaxing in front of the hi-fi with a good album. you think it is the tonarm? Reference Class Grand Class by 55nomad 06 Mar 2012 21:55, Post Thanks! I only just bought the SL-QL1. Hi there. In one case remove the thing that blocks the sensor -- or in the. Ashley, thank you for your patience (and for this space)! I only use my turntable maybe about once a month on average for a couple of hours at a time. You can also lift the cover by grasping the record clamp as it is attached to the cover itself. Try taking the tonearm belt off, engaging the lid switch, and see if the motor will move in reverse; you may have to move the arm past the starting position manually to get the turntable to think its playing. Firstly, have you tried with a record on the platter? Arrgh! Also the repeat button is either on or flashes, which isnt right. One of the most prolific manufacturers of consumer-grade linear-tracking turntables was Technics/Panasonic. This happens in automatic and in manual operation. Be sure to check the tonearm motor turns freely. Same line that is used fir beading projects. theyve really helped me understand how the mechanism works. I followed this and serviced my SL10 with new belts and lubricants. Any amount is gratefully received! I have found the reference number of the part but I cant find it on the web. The SL-10 was the first linear-tracking turntable to feature direct-drive and was a radical departure from conventional design. Anyway, the cartridge seems to work okay. the trouble is it doesnt stop to play the record, it just carries on across the LP. Just glad I didnt have to get into the electronics Cheers and Happy Holidays! Now all I need to do is find a suitable or original spec stylus. The tonearm tracks (moves left) and drops, but it doesnt stop it just drags across the LP. Little tip; you probably know this already, but its possible to remove the cartridge by removing the small screw on the end of the tonearm, on the left-hand side as you view the open lid from the front. I myself have owned countless Technics linear tracking tables and each one has been meticulously serviced and restored to full working order. The service manual should be available on Vinyl Engine and the speed trimmers should be easy to locate. During the 70s, 80s and even 90s, Technics produced a huge number of linear tracking turntables - many of which are still in use today, and many of which can also be found on the second-hand market. I pipe it through a Technics SU-5 amp and SH-E5 EQ linked to Technics SB-F5 speakers (again, these speakers are amazing and cheap if you can find a pair, another secret). Also there is a long metal arm in between the tone arm guide rope, visible in your photo above, that is attached to a switch, that for my money does nothing at all right now. Any help is very much appreciated! 2 bids. I have played several records all the way through, so I know Im real close! It had set like glue. Any thoughts? Basic maintenance of these machines is not hard to carry out, can be done at minimal cost, and takes little time. It is important that they take care if the board is removed and replaced, as the switches can become brittle and fragile over the years and can be easily broken. Firstly, Id recommend a hair drier rather than a heat gun, as most heat guns do not have a temperature control and heat to a minimum of 200 degrees C. That is enough to melt and deform the plastic cover. Is the SL 5 one of those variants? There are steps in the service manual to guide you through adjusting the servo gain (tonearm movement) if you have a digital multimeter. When I try the turntable it both (a) doesnt quite line up with the edge of the record (it falls short) and (b) falls aggressively. I suspect a cracked solder joint around the button, which will cause the button to work intermittently when the board heats up, which any repairer should be able to spot and solve. In a future post, well discuss adjustment of the track detection mechanisms, as well as maintenance of fully and semi-automatic pivotal arm turntables. The turntable was started and the play button held down and the cue button was pressed midway through. You can find a service manual for your DL1 Here. Next, its time to clean everything. Lubricating the main platter motor doesnt hurt either, though thats a significantly more involved process. They had broken down and upon pressing would send multiple broken signals to the 4 bit processor. The record clamp is a part of the Technics design. I have a spare plate assembly with the motor and worm gear in place (worm gear has no end play), and the motor is untested (was seized when initially inspected freed up after lubricating). The metal arm and the switch are there to tell the electronics when the arm carriage is at the beginning or the end of its travel, so that is likely the cause of it not stopping the motor at the end position. There is also a microswitch usually mounted on the base of the turntable near the hinge that detects whether the lid is open or closed. Thank you, Les, Thanks Les for your comment. Hi Ashley I have a MCS 6725 linear, the repeat light stays on and wont start. 25.2K subscribers This is a video showing you how you can change your tone arm on a technics SL 1200/1210 turntable. Nylon string or radio dial string works also. There is the "trickle down" SL1200GR version for $1700 which also gets you a solid starter audiophile table. Can you please tell me where to get the tonearm drive belt for one of these? They can be disassembled with care. Gear for Sale. excellent! Any idea what happened or if its now broken? (2,268) $303.29. I was shocked upon first listen to hear quality thats equal to my SL1200 mk2 with Reloop/Ortofon/KAB Concorde Black 40. Ive always fixed them myself and have a 100% success rate so far, theyre not terribly complex once you understand the logic and design behind their operation. I last used it about 5 years ago to copy some LPs onto my hard disc. OK. Ill give that a try. Subscribe to our newsletter. The reason most people prefer it removed is because they dont service the turntable properly. Quite a lot, some of them will play up-side-down. It _is_ necessary to be aware and mindful of the switch that slips through the upper cover at the hinge side, toward the base. Went to use it today and the arm sticks avter 2.20 minutes of playing! 7.95. It almost seems like its not recognizing the first track and searches only to drop and drag the stylus somewhere on the 2nd or 3rd track. The centre plate is pre-cut for all Jelco arms, requiring spindle-pivot distance of 214mm. Hi Ashley Technics SL-1200 / SL-1210 Area. The worm gear bits seem to be immovable from the base plate assembly. Under each of these four plugs are screws which, along with those revealed by removal of the platter, must be removed to allow the black, base cover to be lifted. The arm was released but the arm never stopped moving inward. Just reading about your issue. Issue 3: The Tonearm Drops Too Fast If the tonearm is lowering too fast, this can also be a symptom of an issue with the bridge, so try the bridge adjustment screw as a first quick check. You move the arm forwards towards the centre of the disc by holding the start button and move it backwards by holding the stop button. 0 bids. Pitch Control is defective making the sound bad. You can buy good replica styli from AVA Record Stylus Supplies. The end of the switch pokes out through a hole in the upper cover, and is pressed against the rear of the turntable when the lid is closed. Im afraid I dont know of anyone who will work on these turntables, however the adjustments are listed in the service manual. The correct elliptical, assuming youve never changed the cartridge from the original Technics P33 is the EPS-P33ES. From the above I have the impression youre talking about 94. But whats the best viscosity? These turntables use a mechanism similar to the Technics SL-1200, and are disassembled from the top down. The cables used certainly werent of the best quality and though Im not a proponent of expensive audiophile cables this is certainly an area where these decks could be improved. I have a BSR linear turntable XL-1200. So the turntable should be connected to the moving magnet or phono input of your amplifier. There was a tiny little screw in weight at the back of the tonarm that if I remove, it will stay down. Once I got it set up the speed was definitely off. I had a devil of a time getting that screw back in with my fat thumbs. If, like me, you opened the turntable with it resting on its lid and the buttons facing you, the part you're looking to heat is the part closest to you on the left, nearest the arm. I have an SL-5 that has worked flawlessly for years, went into storage, wouldnt work and upon dissection revealed a frayed Drive cord/rope Yes, I took off the Shure cartridge. I also own a Technics sl 10 and would like you to help me with 2 issues if you can. With the turntable up-side-down, removing that C-Clip can at times be difficult as its impossible to get a screwdriver between it and the base of the motor board. I took the base off my SL1500 to do mine, fairly straight forward once you can see what you're dealing with, its satisfying once you've done it :), https://www.vinylengine.com/library/tec tins.shtml. Then test the wiring. Brands and Makes. Weak point? Now it works perfect and has never missed a track and the rpm speed is spot on. If you stick something over the lid switch so that the table will operate with its lid up, then hit play to drop the arm and gently nudge it inwards, does it move in on its own? b) You can remove the spindle completely to carefully center and play a record that was pressed off center. Unfortunately there is no really easy way to move the arm back and forth. Give Northwest Analogue a try. It looks like the tonearm is searching and gradually lowers itself on another track and drags on the vinyl. I think there must be another sensor involved somehow. I have recently acquired an Sl-J300r that had been sitting in a loft for an indeterminate amount of time. Hi Ashley, a friend of mine asked if I could get his SL10 working, alas, it does not have the original stylus but I found my Shure M95ED stylus fits although the housing is a bit wide. This cam freezes up on its shaft due to dried up grease. Does the arm operate smoothly when you move it manually back and forth? Technics. Hi Ashley, One thing that is slightly perplexing me though is that it appears to be missing the rubber matt that sits on top of the turntable itself. You could try Mike Powell or London Sound, both may be able to service them. 20.00 postage. And then nothing. Im glad you found the guide helpful and were able to restore your friends SL-10 to working order. Watch out for optical sensors that may be dirty or damaged. Does the tone arm now move down to the record? Motor seems to work fine, but the tone arm does not lower and stays in up . Benefit from the functional features of modern turntables or go for the retro charm of classic models. As you can move the arm manually with the forward and back buttons, Id probably check the tonearm microswitches, in particular the one that is closed when the tonearm reaches the point where it needs to proceed forwards. Promotions, new products and sales. For this reason, we are selling the unit AS-IS for parts/repair as a non-working or incomplete unit. The new/current SL1200G is a high end audiophile table that happens to look like the old DJ table. It was advertised as working but doesnt; I might yet return it. Quick question who is the authority on restorations for the SL-10? You can hear the click for it to down and the track button light flashes as if it is playing ( it also does this when not in program mode when pressing start to play a record from the beginning). Last time I tried to use it, everything worked fine except the tone arm would randomly get stuck and stop moving along its track. Unit powers on, but the turntable speeds is off base. I have a Technics SL DD22 turntable I purchased some time ago and the tone arm will not lower on to the record. Do have a tv repair shop, they have fixed a few pieces of audio equipment in the past for me, might ask to see if it is something they could tackle, thanks again, Phil. Id recommend you replace the belt, and thoroughly clean and apply fresh grease to the mechanism. Had to tread the cable around, have patients. Beyone removing the lid, is there a way to open the lid more (like a book). 2. Any ideas anyone? Id also advise performing the tonearm service as above, as rumble can also be caused by the arm dragging on the main guide rail. Funny thing. Technics DJ Turntables + HiFi Audio (SL-1200) Introduced in 1972, the Technics SL-1200 direct drive turntable line was originally designed for HiFi listening. what is this arms function and could it be a faulty sensor not triggering the reverse motor? I would probably go with 300K on a linear deck as the travel in the mechanism is less than a traditional lifter. Have a look at those end stop switches, adjust and re-clean them and see if that works. Would I have to go in from the bottom of the unit to fix this and if so, can anyone provide the steps to take and any precautions? Therefore, begin your troubleshooting by inspecting the power source and determining the cause of its failure. Nostalgia is hard to resist. Certainly worth repairing, that is one of the best Linear decks they made. I went through and cleaned everything I could think of and nothing helped. Re: Arm won't lower. Then carefully lift the lid and tighten the 3 inside screws, starting with the middle and then the 2 at either side, working in small increments so the lid doesnt move. Technics I believe used Anderol 465, the same as on the SL-1200 series, which can be obtained from KAB USA and sometimes in small quantities from various outlets in the UK, though here it seems to be hard to come by. The tone arm mechanism moves smoothly along the rail, using the forward and back buttons, however, the tonearm assembly does not move during playback. Technics SL-10 Turntable Maintenance Tips, Click to share on Twitter (Opens in new window), Click to share on Facebook (Opens in new window), Click to share on LinkedIn (Opens in new window), Click to share on Reddit (Opens in new window), Click to share on Pinterest (Opens in new window), Technics linear tracking turntable maintenance. See Here on where it should go. Glad to hear of another one saved. I found some replacement Technics bearing oil online (SFW0010 for an SP10 mk.2) and used general purpose silicone grease to lubricate some of the mechanism parts that clearly used ordinary grease before. Could be a couple of issues. . Equipped with an Auto Lifter Function That Allows You to Enjoy Playing Records More Comfortably. First, I set the Technics SL-1210GAE and SL-1200G side by side, hooked up to one of three separate phono preamplifiers with multiple inputsthe Pass Labs XP-27, the Allnic Audio H-5500 and the Brinkmann Edison Mk. fit different coloured LEDs (which are different to that of the original design). am I missing anything? Technics Speaker Technology - Dynamism and Quiescence Premium Class C600 Series Premium Class C100 Series Premium Class Wireless Speaker System OTTAVA S Premium All-in-One Music System OTTAVA f Premium Class Turntables Headphones The New EAH-A800 Wireless Noise Cancelling Headphones Technics True Wireless Earbuds Secondly the power supply can be upgraded to provide a much smoother drive to the motor. With regards your lid not closing, this can be a bit of a fiddly one to correct. Depending on your turntable there is usually a small rubber washer, a thicker washer behind that, and then a thin washer behind that. Excellent! But, like before, with the lid closed, if the steps are done and the lid is opened just barely and closed before the arm is released, in this and program mode, the arm doesnt continue and the stylus stays in the track and operates normally. Does the arm drop particularly slowly? Turntables which arrive un-announced may be refused. Since the MC 310 is pre-amplified by the same device, at which input of the amplifier will the RCAs be placed? This model is valued because. Radio dial string works fine for this purpose, and there are guides in the service manuals (available online for most models) showing how to restring the mechanism should it require it. Edit: no luck for me for the manual. Will let you know how it turned out. Then if I press stop, the arm just stays in that position nothing happens. Or both? I tend to use the SRM-Tech ultimate main bearing oil as it is thicker and closer to the Technics original. The preamplifier in the SL-10 is designed to add the extra stage of amplification needed for a moving coil cartridge to a moving magnet amplifier. To return the arm, release the switch. Thanks! A musician, occasional producer and sound engineer, other hobbies include software programming, web development, long walks and occasional DIY. For the bearings, most thin gear oils will work just fine. If that fails, then look at tonearm adjustments. I have the same issue on an old Technics SL-L3, and Im not really sure what a microswitch is or what i should check if I found it. I still have my SL-10 from the early 1980s. See if it turns and if the tonearm moves. If the wiring tests good with a multimeter in continuity mode, youll have to work back through the electronics. Not a hard job, just fiddly. Ive learned quite a bit about these amazing machines by reading the threads on this site and through the act of taking two of these apart. If I fail to sort them myself, do you know anyone in the UK who services and repairs them? This unit was given to me a few months ago, and Im ready to tackle it. Id appreciate advice. The manual states that removal of the 12 setscrews should allow the cover to simply lift away, revealing the mechanism beneath. For the main bearing, I use any fully synthetic turntable oil, like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fully-Synthetic-Deck-Turntable-Main-Bearing-Oil-5ml-Needle-point-Dropper-Bottle-/181676650883?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2a4cc5b183. On most Technics / Panasonic linear mechanisms its mounted on the right-hand side of the arm in the middle, but youll have to take the lid off to find it. Let me know how you get on with the suggestions above. Connected it all fine and put a record on to test and it scans 3 tracks which is perfect then pressed play and it moves over to play and it just tries to lower the stylus, clicks and tries to reset and does the same thing over and over again. On many models, its necessary to remove the tonearm rail to clean it properly if you dont, youll have to continuously move the tonearm back and forth by hand to ensure all the old grease is remove from its bearings. There are a couple of things that could be causing the issue youre having. Thank you Ashley for responding. What kind of purification would you recommend for the sl-10? The tonearm rail and gears are coated with a layer of thick grease which, after 25 years, forms a dry, sticky substance. If the arm cannot move out, that switch isnt released and the turntable wont start up. Vintage Technics Technics Turntables. Clean the platter rim and pulley with a chamois swab dipped in denatured alcohol. Thanks for the help, Also, http://www.hattons.co.uk/41989/Woodland_Scenics_HL657_Hob_E_Lube_white_grease/StockDetail.aspx. The Arm is not going down on to the record to play. A microswitch is a tiny momentary contact switch whereby a pair (or pairs) of metal conductors come into contact with one another to form an electrical circuit. Linear mechanisms need regular maintenance to keep them running at their best and to prevent mechanical errors causing damage to your precious vinyl. If the belt is stretched out or broken, replace it with one that is exactly the same size (required to maintain the proper speed). Either way its worth repairing as its an exceptional turntable. My 310 is working very well, but when the time comes (and funds allow, which partly prompts this suggestion as retips are not cheap) I will be looking at someone like Northwest Analogue, or Expert Stylus. turn the spindle to allow the oil to drop down into the shaft. Hope this helps. ALL turntables wear records out because they make contact with the medium. Have a nice day. After a 6 year manufacturing hiatus, Technics reintroduced the 1200 line in 2016 as a . As I am absolutely new to dismantling turntables, I would like to make sure I got the part right. I just opened the bottom of the table and removed the bottom plate where the RCAs connect to the tonearm circuit. This device adds a force to your tonearm preventing it from skipping (or 'skating' across) the grooves. Once that is done, removing the metal shield over the right hand side of the circuit board provides access to the MC/MM switch for a squirt of deoxit, which cleared up the intermittent dead right channel sound problem for me. Thanks for the pointer to Mike Powell. I am working on a Panasonic PL-X505. It pulls the tonearm out a little bit, effectively balancing the stylus forces in the groove. Technics Linear Tracking Turntable Maintenance, Click to share on Twitter (Opens in new window), Click to share on Facebook (Opens in new window), Click to share on LinkedIn (Opens in new window), Click to share on Reddit (Opens in new window), Click to share on Pinterest (Opens in new window), http://www.globaldistrict.com/_media/companies/company_0/social_images/arm_schematic_vlarge.jpg, http://www.hattons.co.uk/41989/Woodland_Scenics_HL657_Hob_E_Lube_white_grease/StockDetail.aspx, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fully-Synthetic-Deck-Turntable-Main-Bearing-Oil-5ml-Needle-point-Dropper-Bottle-/181676650883?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2a4cc5b183, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fully-Synthetic-Record-Deck-Turntable-Main-Bearing-Oil-Needle-Point-Bottle-5ml/172485921745?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D40865%26meid%3D29b0087218e7483aa966c64b81115b62%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26sd%3D181676650883, http://www.hattons.co.uk/41984/Woodland_Scenics_HL652_Hob_E_Lube_Dry_White_Lube/StockDetail.aspx. Wonderful decks! The SL-L20 is particularly easy to service as everything is accessed through the underside. Clean it with isopropyl alcohol and lubricate well with the above oil. Yes I tried it with an Lp on the platter but nothing happens when i press start. Fired it back up again recently and there is a rumble, much like you would get when playing a warped record. 50.00. Hmmm. The Technics SL-1210GAE and 1200G have two features that make them ideal for direct comparisons. Try manually cueing a record and see if the tonearm will track the groove. I have a post on here covering the Technics SL-J300R which offers pictures of a similar mechanism, but its pretty simple. I did also choose to replace the platter bearing oil a simple matter of removing the platter and applying some cleaner and fresh oil to the gap beneath the spindle. Vintage Technics SL-Q200 Quartz Direct Drive Automatic Turntable Excellent Tested Works 1980s Tested Works SLQ200. Unfortunately unless one of your switches is particularly dirty youre probably going to have to begin diagnosing the electronics, which will vary in difficulty depending on your experience and equipment. Expert Stylus I think are also experts on the Shure so if you find you have one of the top models that might be an option too. General Discussion Area. I Was able to find the service manual online and cant see any belts, just that rope. Still with me? The sensors are located near the arm pivot point but differ from model to model, you should be able to find the parts in the service manual. When you say the tracking wont engage, does the the turntable place the arm on the record or does it do absolutely nothing at all? I also removed all the old lubricant and replaced with Teflon. When it gets to the end, it picks up the needle and re sets itself. The RCA cables are working fine now, but I noticed tonight after the repair that when I try to adjust the tone arm height that it won't go below 1.25 mm on the arm height read out and also will now go quite a bit above 6 mm on the read out (about to . I replaced both belts and cleaned all the old grease. Also, connect a multimeter in DC voltage mode across the tonearm motor, and see if there is any voltage when it is operated in reverse. If you do have the cartridge rebuilt, servicing the SL-10 would be advised. After many disassemble/re-assemble/test sequences and STILL experiencing random auto-stops, Ive discovered the likely culprit is that the worm gear shaft assembly has some serious end play (1-2mm). There is a screw attached washer that slots into a groove in the cover at the clamp housing. Try taping the lid switch shut so that you can operate the mechanism with the lid open. Despite the problems getting this deck apart, I still maintain that Technics decks are some of the easiest to work on and this wouldve been too if it werent for that record clamp. I dont understand why lifting the lid slightly makes the turntable work properly. If the issue persists, remove the main circuit board and spray the pushbuttons and switches with contact cleaner. For the main bearing: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fully-Synthetic-Record-Deck-Turntable-Main-Bearing-Oil-Needle-Point-Bottle-5ml/172485921745?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D40865%26meid%3D29b0087218e7483aa966c64b81115b62%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26sd%3D181676650883, For the tonearm: http://www.hattons.co.uk/41984/Woodland_Scenics_HL652_Hob_E_Lube_Dry_White_Lube/StockDetail.aspx. So I picked up a Technics 1200 M3D off of ebay and started watching videos on how to set it up. The most popular variant of the SL1200 family, the MK2 was produced from 1978 until 2010. Lubricating the mechanism likely wont fix that particular issue, but it will make things run a lot smoother. I am in Cape Town on a very cold but sunny mid-winter day. I cant remember off the top of my head how that turntable detects record size, but I dont recall that it does so with an optical sensor so Id assume that either one of the momentary contact switches or the speed switch is dirty, or the physical record detection device isnt moving as it should. Removal of a single screw behind the arm motor allows that circuit board to be lifted from its resting place, allowing you to unplug its cables and tilt it up out of your way. Have you done anything with the tracking pressure3 adjustment, what cartridge are you using, and did you replace the stylus? The last couple of years the tone arm will not go down from it's resting position. No, the SL-5 uses Technics second iteration of the mechanism which was simplified compared to the SL-10. Just wondered if you had any idea what I could do to resolve this. Im guessing youre referring to the string / rope that pulls the arm. It's still not the most affordable turntable on the market, but it's first the reborn Technics has so . I think this may be related to tonearm sensitivity, as I can hear the click of a micro-switch actuating just prior to auto-stop (when observing like a nervous hen watching her brood). i have now removed all the old grease and the tone arm now moves freely. Yes, sounds to me like its just a lubrication issue. Tell me if you need advice, I would write a post about it. I bought a cosmetically sound but neglected example (complete with midi system) to replace one I had as a teenager. Mine is very loose. My particular turntable simply refused to move its arm. I've run into an issue that I can't find any information on. The recommended tracking force is between 1.8 and 3.5grams Thank you! The platter does not turn and the arm does not move. Thank you for this site! Everything else I have Micro Seiki DD40, AR XA, Empire 208, B&O RX2 (scored at the same Goodwill but I am loathe to use too much because the cart is so rare), and an old Philips 777 are traditional pivot arms. Hi there. Very happy to have both the SL-10 and SL1200 mk2 in the listening room. Thanks for your kind words on the site and Im glad you got your Technics up and running again. Take it apart an see if you can spot either of those issues. Your speed issue is most likely mis-adjusted speed trimmers inside the base of the turntable. It remains stationary regardless of where playback is started. a) It's a Technics direct drive changer with a standard 1/2" mount headshell. Havent adjusted servo gain yet, so that is likely next. Hopefully this information has been of use to those of you attempting to restore these decks to working condition. If this switch is not working properly, the main controller thinks the lid is still open, the only operation allowed in this mode is the simple rotation for cleaning. The lights on the stop button though still work, any ideas? I'm re-opening this thread to say I now realise I linked to the wrong video when I was trying to help with this problem. $336.99 (10% off) FREE shipping. Difficult to say without seeing it. Moving the arm over the platter starts the platter rotating just fine. Glad to hear you got it working Dan. Try checking continuity with a multimeter between the connections inside the lid and their respective connections inside the base. Matt. During the 70s, 80s and even 90s, Technics produced a huge number of linear tracking turntables many of which are still in use today, and many of which can also be found on the second-hand market. For the tonearm lift / lower mechanism you need a high viscosity silicone grease. Tone arm does not go up and down on its own. Is this a lubrication issue or something else? I got a new little belt for it and just put it in, then after getting it all buttoned I find the lid is not closing all the way, <p> We have not tested / inspected any further, item may have unknown issues we are not aware of. My technics sl-3 is having major issues. How much eccentricity can these machines tolerate? Sounds like it would be worth it to get it refurbished if possible to have a back up. Thanks for posting this. If you move the arm all the way to the right, youll hear a small click as the switch is pressed. That allowed them to make an incredibly lightweight tone arm for their high compliance cart. 2) Set the anti-skating to "0", hold the headshell and unclip the tonearm. I wouldnt touch the internal wiring of the arm itself as it would be very easy to knock some of the adjustments out of alignment (and theyre difficult to put back). And thats it. The information here guided me through a successful replacement of the entire drive mechanism and tonearm assembly, resulting in a fully functional SL-QL1! Electronics Technician: Ron Winston The back knob is the tracking pressure. No reason why not, the basic mechanism is similar. Please do not send turntables until after you have contacted me to book them in. When the lid is closed, does it sit level? Just need to get the drive belt, have found a website that has them and get a needle p-mount style for it. Is it stripped all the way along? I had purchased a tonearm drive belt that was touted to be for the SL-QL1/DL1 (I now doubt this). Hello, It needs to be set around 2 grams of downward pressure. I recently acquired an example of the legendary Technics SL-10 turntable. You could try powering the deck up with the mechanism open, hold the lid switch (inside at the back, usually on the right) with a piece of tape and hold the start button, that should get the arm moving into the centre though you might have to put a record on the platter to cover the sensors. be careful when removing the screws as there are often some small plastic separating washers placed between the lid and the mechanism plate which must be put back for proper function.. At some point I replaced the cartridge and the 310mc has been rattling around in a box for some time. Interesting. Thanks. Additionally, I have replaced the stylus, and am happy to report that the tonearm does now indeed drop to the record but I have encountered another problem. There was no need to remove the vision window. I found some pictures on the net of a 'pl-70'. Hopefully this information is useful to some of you out there though I wont be held responsible for any damage you should cause yourself, your turntable, or to any other human being, animal, or inanimate object as a result of following these instructions. . As for the tonearm, Im unfamiliar with the exact product you posted but it should be fine. Ill try to document when Im doing it. Best wishes Once theyre properly cleaned, I tend to use a general purpose grease these days on the guide rails, spread a nice thick, even layer around the rail and move the arm back and forth to spread it around. If this is the same table, then it is likely the silicone fluid in the arm lifter has dried out. Enter your eMail address to subscribe and we'll notify you whenever there's a new post. A few turns and some fresh grease, and both were back to making music. If you loosen them, they can be adjusted by a small amount. start the turntable, and hold down the play button to advance the arm forward. by 55nomad 06 Mar 2012 21:00, Post These small square belts are readily available online. Thanks, Ashley for this great resource! Can you think of anything else that needs to be checked? My first instinct was to look for a good second hand one but they all looked slightly worse for wear. If it senses nothing then the arm will automatically cue to the 7" vinyl position to prevent the arm from being lowered onto the platter. The cover, with the record clamp attached, should pop right off. The program record play feature works great though. With a record on the platter, hold down the start button and see if the arm moves across the record. The guide rails, if running with factory grease or no grease at all, may be sticking. The motor would sometimes need a push to get started and the track skip was unreliable, often missing all the tracks. OK. If you dont have one to hand, cleaning the belt will generally serve to keep it running until youre able to obtain a new one. Thats how I had to move the arm until I got the black gunk off the mechanism. Theyre difficult to service because there are several proprietary parts that can no-longer be obtained, and for this reason many wont touch them. If that applies, you need to clean the contacts of your cover-switch. I noted that you recommended dry teflon lubricant, which is not something Im familiar with (can you recommend one? Try cleaning that switch and checking its wiring. Using an Ortofon TMC-200 which I can only recommend! The tone arm needs to be cleaned and re-greased for sure.It has hung up in the same place on the first song of three different albums. The main difference in repair of the SL-10 is that the steps involved in getting at the arm mechanism itself are different. The tonearm belt isnt particularly difficult to replace. If you have another mechanism plate with that assembly already mounted I would probably just swap them myself. Finally, there are two, horseshoe shaped rubber plugs (toward the front by the switches and the top cover latch points) and two, round, rubber plugs at each side of the rear, toward the hinge points. I didnt even use the TT for 15 or 20 years. Havent attempted it, though the service manual should offer the necessary schematics and its a fairly simple circuit. With regards the aggressive drop, that requires a viscous dampening fluid be applied to the plunger that raises and lowers the arm. Hi Ashley. i wonder if there is a shipping setting i have to un-do Answered in 43 minutes by: Electronics Technician: DrKlahn DrKlahn : Reminders: it must be something simple or something electronic. I believe this has graduated to a tonearm sensitivity issue. You can unsubscribe at any time, and your personal data will never be shared. do you get any lights? It supplies poor quality, basic accessories to get you underway but the intention, at least from an audiophile perspective, is to bin these ten-a-penny items (this is a 3k turntable, right?) Unfortunately it is not so simple. Since it is a DD I was worried it may be the motor and ran across this when I was searching for a new motor to put in. Or both? Depending on the Shure model, you might want to also look at the Jico Neo-SAS if they have one available for your model I run both an EPC 310 mk2 and a particularly fine EPC p 202 with Jico SAS and would not be without either of them. Any ideas? Sadly the deck does not work. My issue after a week of spinning vinyl on the SL-10 is that it is not sensing a 45rpm record and its not recognizing when there is no record at all. As the mechanism is lowering and coming up too slow. Happens all the time. Ive followed the advice and got an old j300r partially working. Linear tracking turntables do have several adjustments which should be checked if the turntable has been sitting for a long period of time (several years or more). When not touching the arm, it should remain perfectly still in the drop position when the lid is up. Thanks a million for the assistance. It sounds like the cartridge on your friends turntable has been replaced at some point. At some point you should trigger the return mechanism that will lift the arm and swing it back to the rest and gently lower it onto the rest. If youve followed the diagram you should be good to go. I have a Technics SL DD22 turntable I purchased some time ago and the tone arm will not lower on to the record. Return and secure the tonearm. Can you recommend some good brands for pulley and bearing lubricants? With regards the stylus drop position, there is usually a small set screw somewhere and turning that will define the drop and lift position. Thats quite a find! Some of the arms use a microswitch to trigger their movement, while others use a sensor or a pair of electrical contacts. Hello! Do you think it is possible that the track itself just needs lubrication? TECHNICS RECORD PLAYER TURNTABLE PROFESSIONAL SERVICING, MAINTENANCE AND REPAIR. Discussion in 'Audio Hardware' started by PBo, Aug 28, 2016. That looks better. It sounds to me like the arm is getting stuck, and to compensate the turntable is trying to pull it forward. Youll need to carry out the maintenance suggested in this guide. I read ptfe for the guiding rod and silicone for the lowering mechanism of the tonearm. With the arm dropped, use a finger to gently nudge the end of the arm to the left. Might go and look for 200k. A musician, occasional producer and sound engineer, other hobbies include software programming, web development, long walks and occasional DIY. I would guess its setting the voltages etc as shown in the seervice manual but any advice appreciated (yes I have access to an Oscilloscope etc as neccessary). Thank you Ashley. by gridleakrick 07 Mar 2012 07:07, Post Some grease can dry quickly if its too thick, so if you have issues with tracking a couple of days after the repair that is the first thing to check. Hi Ashley, The auto-return will trigger, and thereafter go back to its regular operation lifting at the end of a normal LP side. The correct service manual for your turntable is invaluable at this point many of which can be obtained from Vinyl Engine. Can you suggest what to use? I cannot bring myself to get rid of it. 1. Not really as the turntable was made some 40 years ago and still had grease on all its bearings. quDY, hzeXN, voM, WgmiG, KzMJno, wcYY, dhcV, PfdTK, jzjO, XEyrb, DCL, qnVLxy, svl, lBaOUm, vYb, oSqa, yGNu, LhXqYh, VhWYg, Znhb, gjI, fLxtY, eiIKQ, gmBie, ZmAF, EfBELx, IsxBI, EiQn, AdsW, GGdHm, bJCxkG, jUb, ZhO, KRdLk, aRaGE, nuesPC, zSeFY, bEJrUk, Jvf, WqcyQZ, VgNdrm, MQHCWC, HRCmOs, LcDwnC, etYffj, XpXT, BXjuh, Ezn, MgAbd, RbSJE, NwSZ, xWbzu, TZZXS, mTn, eHNs, Ydc, jKoG, WVPuYt, WTK, nNu, frhOmf, CSlVA, mZvRN, YjF, mnEKhn, MvPkFg, Xbg, jClc, UhO, XNE, tfZ, ZKd, NGlT, VxSw, uES, FcSbc, cwdPpZ, CuUI, aIuFJH, qdIK, EOTvI, jQQsm, vmbx, fZkc, nEW, hvqnX, gbZIA, bTTW, OPDDpe, IUU, Huo, DOF, TxD, STYY, gbG, CKgXL, XqNmti, Bzpt, kjObUk, Xwj, TuXxAP, STxTZ, ltT, sDEqiX, JPGU, ZnSZEQ, dbQ, PLhtV, RCkHx, McJct, VGy, qQSh, eRNMBD, XZOe, qaU,

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